Great British Food - Christmas 2025

Ekstedt at The Yard In the heart of London, Niklas Ekstedt has created a cosyhomage to Scandinavia and the lost art of fire cooking There was a definite nip in the air as I walked through the iconic streets of Westminster to Great Scotland Yard Hotel, an imposing building within just a fewminutes’ walk from Embankment and Charing Cross stations, but any chill soonmelted away as I stepped into the plush surrounds of the hotel and was ushered through to Ekstedt at The Yard – the London counterpart to Niklas Ekstedt’s Michelin- starred Stockholm restaurant – the gentle smell of woodfire subtly scenting the air. Before long I was poring over the cocktail menu in search of an aperitif, and the list of options had a definite Scandinavian air. I opted for a cloudberry bellini – at once sweetly rich and refreshing – while my companion chose a beef dripping-washed old fashioned with spiced notes of smoky caramelised apple. The sommelier recommended a smooth Rioja expertly chosen by himself from a vineyard in Spain and imported exclusively for the hotel. Gentle yet full of flavour, it perfectly matched every dish to come. Decadent snacks soon followed, offering a glimpse of the gastronomic delights to follow. An impossibly crisp pastry filled with a flavourful cream and beef tartare, with a surprising zing on the finish, was the highlight alongside a charred buckwheat flatbread topped with perfectly sweet lobster. We opted for the immersive Journey to Scandinavia menu, which started with an awe-inspiring trip to the kitchen, where we witnessed first-hand the intense skill shown by the small teamof chefs as they expertly cooked purely on open fire. A three-tier ‘oven’ consisting of an open fire, grill and rack upon which sat a hunk of beef gently smoking and slowly dripping into the fire belowwas the starting point for our first course – a beef dripping-seared oyster served with an indulgent cream sauce and tangy, crunchy spheres of apple, eaten in front of the fire where it had just been prepared. Next, a simple dish which belied the culinary science behind it – flavour-packed sourdough with the ultimate crust, dipped into house- made cultured butter with whey presented to the table in a steaming teapot and cut through with a vivid green oil. A special occasion created using foundational ingredients; the epitome of gastronomic skill. A perfectly seared scallop – at once crunchily seared and buttery-smooth – arrived next, nestled onto a sharp-sweet plum compote and onion and whey emulsion, and topped with crunchy pork. Here we discovered the magic of Scandinavian cooking – a heady and expertly balanced blend of savoury and sweet, sharp and comforting. Meatymonkfish, perfectly cooked, followed, having been placed on an elegant array of lightly charred vegetables and toppedwith an indulgent emulsion and rich chicken jus. Next, the ultimate steak (in place of the usual duck which wasn't at its best on the day, an example of the chef's dedication to quality) – beautifully caramelised yet brilliantly tender and pink within, servedwith the richest of jus, a savoury foam, a vibrant purple leaf with a surprising burst of berry within, and a new discovery: beetroot partneredwith elderflower. Tomake themost of this feast, milk breadwith a salted and burnished crust, and the softest crumb within tomop up any remaining juices, arrived on smouldering hay to emphasise the role of fire at the heart of themenu. On to the sweet courses: an elegantly sweet yoghurt ice cream sitting atop tangy cloudberries, with a refreshing cicely snow and buttery biscuit for pre-dessert, and a signature dish of light-as-a- feather mushroom souffle servedwith blueberry, ice creamand a biscuit crumb. The final, spoiling, treat was a triumph. Bites of sharp sea buckthorn, delicate raspberry tarts and tart ruby red sorbet were partnered by amini Princess cake in kind – surprise – celebration of my dining partner’s birthday. An homage to the ancient skill of fire cooking and a celebration of Scandinavian heritage and cuisine, this was an unforgettable experience. Ekstedt at The Yard can be found at Great Scotland Yard Hotel, London. ekstedtattheyard.com 123 greatbr i t i shfoodawards.com REVI EW