Great British Food - Christmas 2025

The University Arms, Cambridge Bang in the centre of one of Britain’smost historic cities sits this stylishode toCambridge’s storiedpast SLEEP : The exterior of The University Arms suggests a hotel steeped in class and style, and the moment I stepped inside I knew this to be the case. Elegant and comfortable, the panelled walls and Edwardian stylings make for an indulgent getaway. My roomoverlooked the city’s famous Parker’s Piece green through beautifully large sash windows, while softly luxe furnishings made me feel spoiled yet perfectly at home. The bathroomwas a highlight, appointed with traditionally-styled details throughout – from the hardware to the gorgeous shower gel and soap – somuch so that I looked forward to, and relished, a decadently long shower and subsequent wrapping in the hotel’s fluffy white robe. EAT: The customer service here is second to none, and having been expertly recommended the Blanc de Blanc fromSaffron Grange – a local vineyard – by superb sommelier Carlos, I knew I was in for an indulgent treat. Snacks to begin: cheese straws hot from the oven, rich and buttery with the tang of cheese and served with a savoury-sharp dip, partnered with devils on horseback – rich and warming, they showcased the deep dark caramel sweetness of prunes with the savoury chew of bacon. A perfectly plump oyster followed, delicately saline with a sharp kick from a herbaceous chilli vinegar. Next, a salad: perfectly soft pears paired with creamy goats cheese with a salty lactic tang, perfectly toasted and caramelised walnuts, bitter leaves and the rounded sweetness of honey with a mild but growing heat on the tongue and aroma fromblack pepper. The chef did not hold back on the main course of succulent chicken with burnished and crispy- caramelised skin; rich, creamy and comforting yet fresh thanks to the green crunch of charred little gem lettuce. The vegetal indulgence followed with petit pois, served sweet-savoury withmellow onions and the sharp saltiness of pancetta. I saw out the meal in style with a pistachio baked alaska, rich in nuttiness with a joyful hot/cold sensory experience, served with a tart raspberry compote to cut through the rich sweetness. Roasted sugared pistachios were a crunchy highlight. Paired with a Nyetimber sparkling dessert wine, as per Carlos’ advice, this was the ultimate end to a very special evening. Breakfast the following day was worth a trip in itself – the extensive buffet provided everything you could possibly need, from cereals and overnight oats (with a wide selection of healthy toppers such as dried fruits and seeds) to an array of breads and pastries, fresh fruit and yogurt, and a self-serve hot buffet with eggs, perfectly crisp bacon, delicious sausages, tomatoes and mushrooms... the indulgent list goes on. DO: Cambridge is renowned for its history, so no trip to the city is complete without a walk around the hallowed halls of the university. Soak up some culture within opulent surrounds at the world- famous FitzwilliamMusem – there is plenty to see for free as well as the paid-for exhibitions – and if you’re feeling creatively-minded, head to Kettle’s Yard just outside of the city centre. An former artist’s home now open to the public, it’s a favourite haunt of cookery writer Nigel Slater. No trip to Cambridge would be complete without a visit to The Cambridge Cheese Company, and just next door you’ll find Hill St. Chocolatier – a stylish, small-batch chocolate maker with a selection ideal for gifting (you deserve it). 121 greatbr i t i shfoodawards.com REVI EW